Cosmeceuticals are pharmaceutical products that provide cosmetic benefits. They are normally marketed as cosmetics (and are therefore found at the cosmetics counter), but they contain biologically active ingredients that can profoundly affect the health and appearance of the skin or hair.
Examples of biologically active substances found in cosmeceuticals include Retinol (vitamin A) and vitamin C, soy-derived phyto-estrogens and some of the more advanced sunscreens.
Retinol
Retinol (vitamin A) was one of the first antioxidants to be used in cosmetics. A significant amount of scientific evidence confirms the benefits of applying retinol to aging or sun-damaged skin. Retinol smooths and softens fine lines and wrinkles, lightens pigmentation and reverses some of the damage caused by sunlight.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C, another powerful antioxidant, neutralizes some of the damage to cells caused by free radicals. Research has shown that adding topical vitamin C to skin can stimulate the production of collagen. This has the effect of smoothing fine lines and “plumping up” wrinkles.
Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant found in young skin. It is depleted following exposure to the sun, pollution or cigarette smoke (either from smoking one’s self or second-hand smoke). Even minimal exposure to sunshine can reduce the skin’s vitamin C levels by 30 percent, and exposure to city pollution can decrease the level by 55 percent.
Phyto-Estrogens
Phyto-estrogens are plant estrogens which mimic the effects of natural female hormones. (Phyto is Greek for “plant.”)
The hormone estrogen is responsible for helping to keep the skin moist and supple. Waning hormone levels following menopause are believed to contribute towards aging of the skin by causing collagen and elastin to weaken. This causes the dermis to shrink and the epidermis to loosen, forming folds and wrinkles.
When phyto-estrogens are applied to the skin, they appear to help support the underlying structures of the dermis. This in turn delays the appearance of aging. Soy phyto-estrogens are commonly employed in creams and lotions that help delay aging of the skin.
Sunscreens
The purpose of a sunscreen is to block the damaging effects of ultraviolet (UV) light on the skin. Since two primary lengths of UV light reach the earth’s surface - UVA and UVB - it is important that a sunscreen provide “broad spectrum” protection against both.
A recently introduced, patented sunscreen, Mexoryl® SX, is proving to be of significant benefit to the skin. One of the problems with many sunscreens is that the molecules that block out solar energy become unstable, causing the cream or lotion to lose its effectiveness. When combined with other UV filters, Mexoryl® SX provides long-lasting, effective protection due to the virtually impervious nature of the molecule to the action of solar energy.
Special Care For the Eye Area
The skin around the eye area is particularly thin and delicate. (It is only 0.5mm thick, whereas the rest of the facial skin is 2mm thick.) Since it is so fine, the skin surrounding the eyes is usually the first to wrinkle due to being pulled and stretched during the processes of cleansing and applying makeup. Squinting, smiling and blinking also put stress on this delicate skin. (We blink, on average, 10,000 times a day.)
Vichy Laboratories Reti-C Eyes intensive eye care contains vitamin A (retinol) and vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) to help minimize wrinkling and reverse some of the damage resulting from sun exposure.
The Reti-C range of products contains a number of skincare formulas targeted to reduce the signs of aging. You will find these at the London Drugs cosmetics counter.