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Your Changing Skin
Hormones, Sunlight and
Your Changing Skin

One of the many challenges faced by women 'of a certain age' is a loss of skin tone. Changes to the structure and elasticity of the skin eventually happen to everyone, although they are particularly marked in women who have experienced significant exposure to sunlight. Can we delay midlife skin changes, or are they an inevitable consequence of the march of time?

The hormone estrogen plays many different roles within the body. One of these roles is to maintain the integrity of the structures of the skin, including the collagen/elastin matrix that forms the skin's physical support system. (The breakdown or depletion of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and other supporting molecules in the dermis all lead to the skin changes we associate with aging.)

When estrogen levels fall, collagen weakens and the skin thins, taking on a dry, wrinkled and/or sagging appearance. Although these changes are most obvious on the face, they affect the skin all over the body. Dry, sagging skin on the upper arms and thighs is a marker of the hormone depletion accompanying menopause.

Other signs of maturing skin include age spots and broken capillaries. Age spots (solar lentigo) are areas of dark pigmentation caused by long-term exposure to ultraviolet light. They most commonly occur on the hands and face. Broken capillaries are tiny blood vessels that have usually sustained damage due to the loss of protective collagen in the skin.

While many women choose to accept the changes in their skin that occur with time, many more are wondering what they can do to prevent the more visible signs of maturity, or even reverse them.

Hormonal Influences

Replenishing estrogen through hormone replacement therapy (HRT) appears to help thicken the skin and, to a degree, reverse wrinkling and sagging. A 1996 study involving 98 postmenopausal women undergoing HRT (estradiol gel or patches) measured skin thickness, skin hydration, and skin surface lipids (fats). The study found that estrogen replacement increased skin thickness 7 to 15 percent and skin lipid sebum by 35 percent¹. It is likely, although not yet clinically proven, that bioidentical hormone therapy also partially reverses thinning of the skin.

A number of skin-care products, available from London Drugs, are formulated especially for mature skin. Vichy Neovadiol®, for example, contains phyto-estrogens (plant estrogens) to help thicken the skin.

The Effects of Sunshine

Approximately 90 percent of the signs of aging in skin are due to prolonged exposure to sunlight. Ultraviolet light not only damages the cells' DNA, but also inhibits the mechanisms that repair damaged skin cells.

At midlife, much of the sun damage accumulated throughout life begins to show itself in the form of wrinkles, skin discolouration and age spots. Many women decide at this time in their lives that using sunscreen to prevent the skin from aging no longer has merit, but this is not the case. Injury to the skin continues to accumulate with each exposure to the sun, continuing the damage that causes wrinkling and increasing the risk of skin cancer. Skin that is not exposed to the sun can, to a degree, repair itself. As we age, however, this process takes longer.

A variety of skin-care products that address skin discolouration and age spots are available from the beauty aisles at London Drugs. New Ysthéal+, for example, lightens the complexion, making it more radiant and clear. This popular anti-aging skin-care treatment is formulated by Avène, a Parisian company that is known in Europe for its innovative beauty products.

You may want to discuss your specific skin-care concerns with the London Drugs beauty advisor, who will help identify the best product for your needs. If your skin has sustained much sun damage, and you feel you need a little more 'help', your doctor may recommend a prescription-strength topical treatment.

The Effects of Smoking

Smoking cigarettes causes biochemical changes within the body that accelerate aging. Research shows that a person who smokes ten or more cigarettes a day for a minimum of ten years is more likely to develop deeply wrinkled, dry-looking skin than a nonsmoker². The chemicals in cigarettes constrict the tiny blood vessels in the skin, reducing the number of nutrients that are available for skin maintenance and repair. In addition, the habitual facial expressions associated with smoking cause wrinkles to develop around the lips and eyes. Research has also shown that the skin of people who have smoked for a number of years tends to develop an unhealthy yellowish cast.

A study conducted in 2002 showed that facial wrinkling, while not yet visible, can be seen under a microscope in smokers as young as 20³. If you want to look younger longer, don't smoke.

1. Callens, A., Vaillant, L., Lecomte, P., Berson, M., Gall, Y., Lorette, G. A study of the influence of different hormone therapy regimens on the skin of postmenopausal women using non-invasive measurement techniques. Dermatology 193:4(1996):289-294

2. Demierre, MlF., et all. Public knowledge, awareness, and perceptions of the association between skin aging and smoking. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1999 Jul;41(1):27-30

3. Koh, J>S., et al. Cigarette smoking associated with premature facial wrinkling: image analysis of facial skin replicas. International Journal of Dermatology, 2002 Jan; 41(1)21-27

Cosmetics for Maturing Skin

Midlife skin has different cosmetic needs from younger skin. Loss of elasticity and collagen can give rise to wrinkling, particularly around the eyes and lips, while thinning of the skin emphasizes dark circles under the eyes. Dryness can change the texture of the skin, making cosmetics such as base, powder and eyeshadow collect in creases and appear clumpy and poorly applied.

A new line of cosmetics, formulated especially for women in the prime of their lives, is now available from the cosmetic department at London Drugs.

The Vital Radiance beauty system comprises three steps: Prepare, Colour and Finish. Products in the Prepare category soften and fill in lines, while smoothing away rough areas. As a result, the skin appears flawless, and makeup applies easily and wears better. Colour products smooth and even out imperfections while adding colour and definition for a revitalized, radiant appearance. Finish products brighten the complexion and add vibrance for a professionally finished look.

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